Mehdi Qoli Beyk Museum
The Anthropology Museum and Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse is located next to the tomb of Amir Ghiyas al-Din Malekshah, on the western side of the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza, along Andarzgoo Street in Mashhad. This bathhouse is a stunning remnant of the Safavid era, forming part of an urban complex alongside the Malekshah Mausoleum (Shah Mosque), Sarsang Water Reservoir, and the historical Sarshoor Bazaar.
As one of the oldest and most valuable bathhouses in Mashhad, Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse is part of the endowments of Astan Quds Razavi. It is located in the historic Sarsang district, between Sarshoor Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar. The adjacent alley is famously known as “Hammam Shah Alley”. Originally named “Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse”, it later became known as “Hammam Shah” due to its proximity to Malekshah’s tomb. After the Islamic Revolution, the name was changed to “Razavi Bathhouse”.
Historical Background
According to the endowment document, the bathhouse was built in 1027 AH (1618 AD). Its founder, Mehdi Qoli Beyk, served as the Mir Akhor (chief of the royal stables) during the reign of Shah Abbas I. He was a descendant of the Arghun Oirat family, an influential ruling clan in eastern Iran and Khorasan during the Mongol period.
There are no surviving inscriptions about the architect or builders of this bathhouse. However, historical records reveal that Mehdi Qoli Beyk constructed a dedicated qanat (underground water channel) to supply the bathhouse. The excess water from this qanat was directed to the Goharshad Mosque and used for charitable purposes, with the remainder flowing to farmlands outside the city.
Over time, structural modifications—including the addition of a women’s section in 1971—altered its original design. The bathhouse was eventually abandoned in 1990 and officially registered as a national heritage site in 1997.
Read More: Hooshang Seyhoun : The Legacy of an Iconic Iranian Architect
Architectural Features of Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse
Before restoration, the bathhouse consisted of four primary sections:
- Entrance
- Sarbineh (Changing Room)
- Garmkhaneh (Hot Room)
- Service Areas
However, archaeological excavations and restoration work revealed additional spaces, including:
- An entrance vestibule (Hashti)
- A royal section (Shah Neshin) on the northern side
- An octagonal pool in the Sarbineh
- Beautifully layered paintings in the Sarbineh
- Zir-Rangi tilework in the lower walls of the Sarbineh
- An interconnecting hallway (Mian-Dar)
- A purification pool in the Hashti
- The main Khazineh (water reservoir)
- Filtration basins
- A cold-water pool
- Clay pipe channels (Tanbusheh), used for traditional water supply
These findings expanded the total area of the bathhouse from 400 square meters to 1,875 square meters.
Interior Structure & Design
- Entrance & Sarbineh (Changing Room)
The entrance leads to a small vestibule via a staircase with a gentle curve. From here, another five steps with a similar curve lead to the Sarbineh, which is the most visually striking part of the bathhouse.
In the center of the Hashti (vestibule) is a small pool, likely used for ritual foot washing before entering the Sarbineh. The Sarbineh’s architectural details include:
- An eight-sided layout with a central pool
- Decorative paintings on the walls
- Multi-layered tilework
- Garmkhaneh (Hot Room)
The Garmkhaneh, or hot room, is a square-shaped space featuring four central columns that support a domed ceiling with skylights. Around the Garmkhaneh, there are private bathing areas, while the main Khazineh (water reservoir) is located on the western side.
Inside the Khazineh, large copper boilers used for heating water are still visible. Two adjacent rooms flank the Khazineh, one of which originally contained filtration pools to maintain clean water circulation.
Transformation into a Museum
Despite its historical and architectural significance, Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse suffered severe neglect and unauthorized modifications over time. Recognizing its value, Astan Quds Razavi initiated a major restoration project in 1999 under the supervision of:
- The Cultural Heritage Organization of Khorasan Razavi
- The Department of Endowments & Religious Affairs
- The Organization for the Development of the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza (AS)
Upon completion of the renovation project, the bathhouse was handed over to Astan Quds Razavi Library, Museums, and Archives Organization, and it was repurposed as an Anthropology Museum.
Project Details
- Project Name: Mehdi Qoli Beyk Bathhouse
- Location: Mashhad, Andarzgoo Street
- Founder: Mehdi Qoli Beyk
This Safavid-era bathhouse now serves as an anthropology museum, offering visitors a glimpse into Iran’s traditional bathing culture and architectural heritage.
