Introduction to the Anthropology Museum and Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam

Table of Contents

Mehdi Qoli Beyk Museum

The Mehdi Qoli Beyk Anthropology Museum and Hammam in Mashhad is located adjacent to the Tomb of Amir Ghiyath al-Din Malikshah on the western side of the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza, along Andarzgoo Street, within the historical Mehdi Qoli Beyk complex. This traditional bathhouse is one of the most remarkable surviving structures from the Safavid era. Positioned beside the Tomb of Amir Malikshah (Shah Mosque), the Sarsang Ab-Anbar (water cistern), and the Sarshur Bazaar, it originally formed an integrated urban infrastructure complex. As one of the oldest and most valuable bathhouses in Mashhad and an endowed property (Vaqf) of Astan Quds Razavi, it sits in the historic Sarsang neighborhood between the Sarshur Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar, with its adjacent alley historically known as "Hammam-e Shah Alley." Although originally named "Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam," its proximity to the Amir Malikshah tomb led to it being popularly called "Hammam-e Shah," before being renamed "Razavi Hammam" following the Islamic Revolution.

Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam

According to the bathhouse’s endowment deed (Vaqf-nameh), its construction dates back to 1027 AH (1618 AD). Its founder, Mehdi Qoli Beyk, served as the Master of the Horse (Mir-akhor) to Shah Abbas the Great and was a descendant of the Amir Arghun Oirat family—one of the early rulers of eastern Iran and Khorasan during the Mongol period. No original calligraphic inscriptions survive on the building, leaving the identity of its chief architect unknown.

The benefactor also constructed a dedicated Qanat (underground aqueduct) to supply water to the bathhouse, stipulating that any surplus water be directed to the Goharshad Mosque, with remaining excess funds allocated to charitable causes and leftover water channeled into agricultural lands outside the city. Over time, unscientific modifications—such as adding a modern women’s section to the historic structure in 1971—altered the building's original architectural integrity. The site was gradually abandoned starting in 1990 until it was officially listed on Iran's National Heritage List in 1997.

Architecture of Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam

Prior to restoration works, the layout of Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam (Shah Hammam) consisted only of the entrance, Sarbineh (dressing hall), Garm-khaneh (warm chamber), and service areas. However, systematic archaeological excavations and architectural restoration unveiled previously hidden spaces, including the entrance vestibule (Hashti), northern royal alcove (Shah-neshin), the octagonal central pool of the Sarbineh, intricate multi-layered ceiling paintings, underglaze dado wall tiles, an intermediate vestibule (Mian-dar), a floor basin, the Khazineh (hot water basin), water purification basins, a cold-water pool, and Tanbushehs (traditional terracotta water supply pipes). These discoveries expanded the documented area of the bathhouse from roughly 400 square meters to 1,875 square meters. The entrance leads via a gently curved step into a small vestibule, from which five curved steps descend into the Sarbineh—the most aesthetically ornate hall of the bathhouse. A small basin in the central vestibule likely served as a foot-rinsing basin for bathers returning from the warm chamber before entering the dressing area.

Mehdi Qoli Beyk Museum

Beyond the vestibule lies the Garm-khaneh (warm chamber). This square-shaped space features four central structural columns supporting a vaulted domed ceiling fitted with skylights. Surrounding the chamber are raised alcoves, while the Khazineh (hot water reservoir) occupies the western wing, elevated slightly above the main floor. Large copper cauldrons (copper boilers) embedded in the base of the Khazineh were used to heat the water supply. Flanking the Khazineh were two rooms, one of which housed the water filtration basins before being reconfigured during restoration.

Despite preserving its authenticity over four centuries, the Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam suffered severe structural degradation due to neglect and improper alterations. In 1999, comprehensive restoration was undertaken by the Civil and Technical Division of Astan Quds Razavi Endowments, supervised by experts from the Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts, and Tourism Organization of Khorasan Razavi. Funded by the Organization for the Development of the Imam Reza Shrine Perimeter, the restored complex was entrusted to the Libraries, Museums, and Documentation Center of Astan Quds Razavi and repurposed into an Anthropology Museum.

Project Name: Mehdi Qoli Beyk Hammam
Project Location: Mashhad – Andarzgoo Street
Client / Benefactor: Mehdi Qoli Beyk

Read More: Architectural Works Designed by Hossein Amanat